T8 & T5 LED Tube Conversion Guide
Replacing fluorescent tubes with LED comes down to one question: Type A, Type B, or A+B. Here is what each means, how the wiring differs, and the right DLC-listed tube for your fixtures.
The problem with fluorescent tubes
- Aging ballasts flicker, hum, and fail, and every one is a service call.
- Fluorescent tubes lose brightness and shift color as they age.
- They draw far more power than an equal LED, running all day.
The fix: LED tubes
- Up to 65% less energy, and DLC-listed models qualify for rebates.
- Bypass the ballast (Type B) and there is nothing left to fail.
- Swap in minutes (Type A or A+B), or rewire once and forget it.
Replace fluorescent T8 and T5 tubes with LED and cut lighting energy up to 65%, with no more ballast failures.
How much energy does an LED tube save against fluorescent?
A 32 W T8 fluorescent tube draws about 36 W with its ballast. A Go Green T8 LED tube is set by switch to 10, 12, 15, 18 or 24 W: at 18 W it uses 50% less, at 15 W 58% less, at 12 W 67% less. For 500 tubes running 10 hours a day, 5 days a week, the 36 W to 15 W swap saves about 27,300 kWh a year, about $3,500 at $0.13 per kWh. The DLC-listed tubes (T8 Type A+B, Type B and 8 ft) may also earn a utility rebate. Figures from the GGL-T8AB and GGL-ALT8 spec sheets.
50 to 67% less energy per tube depending on the wattage setting, plus no more ballast replacements.
Compared with a typical 32W fluorescent tube on a ballast (about 36W system). Actual savings depend on the wattage you select and your run hours.
Start Here
Type A, Type B or Type A+B: which LED tube do you need?
Every fluorescent-to-LED tube conversion is one of these three. The difference is what you do with the old ballast.
Keep the existing fluorescent ballast and just swap the tube. The tube's driver is built to run off the old ballast.
Remove or bypass the ballast and wire line voltage straight to the sockets. No ballast in the circuit at all.
Works both ways: run it on the ballast today, then bypass later when that ballast dies. One tube covers both paths.
Type A, Type B or Type A+B: which Go Green tube is which?
Type A runs on the existing fluorescent ballast: swap the tube and nothing else, but the ballast stays in the circuit, keeps drawing power and will fail one day. Type B bypasses the ballast: line voltage is wired to the sockets once, by an electrician, and nothing is left to fail. Type A+B does both: run it on the ballast today and bypass later. The GGL-T8AB (Type A+B) and GGL-ALT8 (Type B) are 4 ft, 10 to 24 W selectable, ETL listed and DLC 5.1 Standard; the 8 ft GGL-8FT-T8 (40 W, FA8 or R17D base) is Type B; the T5 GGL-TF24 (24 W) and the glass T8 (15 or 18 W) are Type B and UL listed. Figures from the product spec sheets.
Ballast bypass wiring: single-ended vs double-ended
Type B tubes are wired one of two ways. Know which before you order sockets.
Single-ended
Line and neutral both land on one end of the tube; the other end just holds it in place. This needs non-shunted sockets on the powered end, so you often replace the tombstones on that side.
Double-ended
Line goes to one end and neutral to the other. It works with most existing sockets, but both ends carry voltage during service. Our 4ft T8 Type B supports single-ended and double-ended wiring.
Single-ended or double-ended: which sockets does a Type B tube need?
Single-ended Type B tubes take line and neutral at one end, so that end needs non-shunted tombstones; a shunted socket shorts the tube. Double-ended tubes take line at one end and neutral at the other and work in most existing sockets, but both ends are live during service. The Go Green GGL-ALT8 T8 Type B accepts either wiring. Three rules apply to every bypass: follow the wiring diagram printed on the tube, have a licensed electrician do the conversion to the NEC and local code, and label each converted fixture as ballast-bypassed so the next person does not fit a fluorescent tube.
Safety first. Type B is line-voltage work. Always follow the tube's own wiring diagram, have a licensed electrician do the conversion to NEC and local code, and label the fixture as ballast-bypassed. When in doubt, a Type A or A+B tube avoids rewiring entirely.
Show me matching tubesThe Lineup
LED tubes for every conversion
All 120-277V, backed by a 5-year warranty, and shipped from US inventory.
Not sure which fits? Tell us your fixture and we will spec it.
Send a photo of your fixture and ballast and we'll spec the exact tube and quantity.
DLC-listed models (T8 A+B, T8 Type B, 8ft) may qualify for utility rebates. Check your utility rebate eligibility.
Tube comparison
| Spec | T8 Type A+B | T8 Type B | T8 Glass | 8ft T8 | T5 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Install type | Ballast-compat or bypass | Bypass (1E/2E) | Bypass | Bypass | Bypass |
| Base | G13 bi-pin | G13 bi-pin | G13 bi-pin | FA8 or R17D | G5 mini bi-pin |
| Wattage | 10-24W sel. | 10-24W sel. | 15 / 18W | 40W | 24W |
| Length | 4 ft | 4 ft | 4 ft | 8 ft | 4 ft |
| Cover / CCT | Frosted, multi-CCT | Frosted, multi-CCT | Milky/clear, 5000K | Milky/clear, 4000/5000K | Frosted, 4000/5000K |
| Voltage | 120-277V | 120-277V | 120-277V | 120-277V | 120-277V |
| Listing | ETL + DLC 5.1 | ETL + DLC 5.1 | UL | ETL + DLC 5.1 | UL |
| Rebate-eligible | Yes (DLC) | Yes (DLC) | Check locally | Yes (DLC) | Check locally |
| Warranty | 5 years | 5 years | 5 years | 5 years | 5 years |
| Price | from $6.50 | from $6.67 | from $3.97 | from $13.33 | from $9.83 |
Most Popular
The most popular tube for your space
What buyers reach for most, by building type. Not sure? We will confirm the fit.
Bundle & Save
Buy the bundle, save more
Why Go Green LED
Backed for commercial retrofits
Go Green LED supplies its tubes from US inventory with a 5-year warranty. The T8 Type A+B, T8 Type B and 8 ft T8 are ETL listed and DLC 5.1; the glass T8 and the T5 are UL listed without a DLC listing; all run on 120 to 277 V.
See it installed
The same tubes, in the spaces they suit.
Photographs show the tube types and the spaces they are specified for. They are representative rather than photographs of a specific customer site.
Avoid These
Common conversion mistakes
A worn ballast still wastes energy and will fail. Bypass it with Type B, or use A+B so you can bypass later.
Single-ended bypass needs non-shunted tombstones on the powered end. Shunted sockets short the tube. Replace them or wire double-ended.
Some tubes cool, some warm, reads as a patchwork. Pick one CCT (4000K or 5000K) across the space.
The next electrician needs to know it is line-voltage direct wire. Label every bypassed fixture per code.
LED tube conversion FAQ
What is the difference between Type A, Type B, and Type A+B LED tubes?
Do I need an electrician to install LED tubes?
What is single-ended vs double-ended wiring?
Will a Type A tube work with my existing ballast?
Which is more energy efficient, Type A or Type B?
Are LED tubes eligible for utility rebates?
Can I reuse my 8-foot fluorescent fixtures?
Ready to convert your tubes?
The T8 Type A+B, Type B and 8 ft tubes are DLC 5.1 listed for rebate programs, every tube carries a 5-year warranty, and all ship from US inventory. Shop the lineup, or send your fixtures and quantities below and our team will spec the exact tube and wiring for your building.
Buying 25+ tubes? Contractors get volume pricing and Net 30 terms.
Get Started
Request a quote.
Fill out the form below and a member of our team will be in touch within one business day.